Top Chef Season 18 in Portland might have slingshotted Chef Maria Mazon into the culinary stratosphere, but it’s the moves she’s been making post-show that is cementing her place as a beyond-badass chef who is finally and fully being true to herself in the kitchen and on her menu.
Based in the UNESCO-deemed City of Gastronomy: Tuscon, Arizona, Maria is Executive Chef at BOCA Tacos y Tequila, Sona Tortillas and Dos opening July 2023. A two-time nominated James Beard Award finalist, she’s a talented chameleon in and out of the kitchen, adapting between mother, owner, chef, muse, wife, and friend from minute to minute.
We sat down with Maria for Spiceology’s Periodically Inspired interview series that dives deep into a chef’s psyche to talk about inspiration, challenges, char, what makes a great tortilla, and a lot more. Read the full interview and get to know her below:
When did you first find a love of cooking?
“I was always that kid that couldn't stand still. Back in the day, there was no such thing as ADHD, but I was always the active, nosey kid. I grew up in Sonora, Mexico. My nanny made the meanest Chile Colorado, and I was always just interested in food. I’m not ashamed to admit that school was never my cup of tea; I tried college and it wasn’t for me. So I started working in restaurants - first at Papagayos.
Being in a border town - Mexican food was not what I grew up eating, like where’s this yellow cheese from? There were three types of ‘Mexican’ food in my world: the food I grew up eating in Sonora, Americanized Mexican food and Tex Mex - I don’t mix with fucking Tex Mex.
But I just got myself in the kitchen. You know how humidity absorbs you? That was me in the kitchen. I discovered that I was good at chaos. I was good at something without getting distracted. I started working in the kitchen when I was 23; I was waitressing before and it didn't bug me, but I knew I wanted to do something else. I became a chef by accident.
And, it needs to be said, I’m Mom before everything else.”
Talk to me about some of the challenges you’ve faced in your career.
“The challenge is always the obvious one: yes, I’m a woman. But the biggest challenge was coming out of the closet and being true to myself, so I could be true to who I wanted to be in the kitchen.
Then there’s money and getting to know the business side, like when I was starting out I was like: the fuck is this? Very, very early on I realized I was a business person first - THEN a chef. Trust me, I want to buy truffles all day long, but the business side of me says no.
But I have some great partners in my wife, my ex, and my ex in-laws.
Now the challenge is social media; some ‘chefs’ are getting notoriety without even stepping in the kitchen. Nowadays the number of followers you have are more credibility than experience or skill. That’s the infuriating part - some of these brands, like who do want to rep you? An influencer or someone who actually has the chops?
I don't cook for the internet, I cook for my patrons. People who come often and wait in line. My Mexican food is not fast food. You’re going to be waiting 13 minutes for a taco because I have to cook your meat to order. I fry my tortilla chips to order. You pay me for excellent food - that takes time."
People around you, music, books, travel - where do you find inspiration when you create new dishes?
“Dude, I can find inspiration just talking to you right now (laughs). I can go to the farmers market, travel, TV. The other day, I was putting my weekend specials together, and I was talking to my wife, and she asked me to pick up some maitake mushrooms and because she asked for those - I decided I’m doing a tostada ceviche with mushrooms.
Boca is about locally-sourced ingredients and as much as I can stretch a dollar. We have amazing farms around us, and I try my best to pay homage to the land. I’m from here, if I don’t feel proud of the ingredients that’s not going to come through in the dish.”
What are some of the challenges for foodservice in 2023?
“It’s always hard to find the right staff. People have fled the industry because you can make more money other places without being chewed up and spit out.
What advice would you give a chef just starting out?
“Don’t be afraid to jump on the dish pit. Once you jump in the dish pit you understand the industry. Never be too arrogant to learn from someone in a lower pay grade. I have someone from Honduras in my kitchen who is a refugee. He had a totally different upbringing from me, and he made a gourmet dish with just three things.
Never stop learning, and don’t get discouraged by a bad day or a bad service or a bad review. The industry will chew you up - just be you. Just don’t be a dick.”
How do you approach plating a dish? Do you consider plating an art?
“It is art, but art has to be approachable. In order to understand Picasso I need to understand his background. I approach plating the same way, and I need to plate to my audience. I am a tweezer-type-of-lady - and then I'm not (laughs). It shouldn’t be ‘oh shit this is too pretty to eat’. It has to be inviting and warm, it has to be a hug.”
What’s a technique or trick you learned in school or along the way that even home cooks could use?
“I have a few. There’s the avocado one: when the belly button of the avocado comes off easily that means it’s good and ripe. Then for ceviche - mix in a dollop of oil to prevent any bitterness from the lime or lemon. Also, buy yourself a good blender. I’m a whore for Vitamix (laughs) - I mean, I have one tattooed on my thigh, so I'm really in the club.”
Talk to me about what makes a great tortilla.
“A great tortilla? It goes back to the land. It has to be great maize. Developing a recipe for a tortilla was the hardest thing I’ve ever done. You wanna use the masa flour, but you need the perfect percentage. It’s kinda like Spiceology - it’s all about creating something delicious that has shelf life.”
Talk to me about char.
“Char is a must, it’s my friend. I grill 90% of the time at home because I hate to clean my stove. At home I had green onions and Anaheim peppers - so I grilled those up to make this chunky char salsa, and the char elevated the overall flavor by 1,000%. Don’t be intimated by the fire - start charring.”
Favorite dish to cook for yourself?
“A sandwich. With ham, provolone, avocado. No mayo - it’s disgusting. And two types of mustard.”
What’s one of your favorite memories from Top Chef?
“The moment that Jamie wanted to leave the competition - that was my boo moment. I just texted that homie. But the show taught me a lot. I was always insecure because I was a Mexican chef with ADHD - it taught me that I CAN call myself a chef.”
Favorite dish to cook for friends and family?
“Besides grilling, my soup - a posole. It’s for when you need a hug; a bowl of soup and TV show can save the world.”
How do you balance being a Mom and an Executive Chef?
“My son balances me. It’s very clear to me that my super power is being Mexican; you have to balance so many things, you have to be able to instantly interchange from all of them. The majority of chefs have ADHD, and I end up taking on that maternal role for my team. One day I’m a nurse in the kitchen then a psychiatrist. But I’m lucky, I have a great team.”